In late June I was fortunate to be able to take some leave whilst in the far north of Scotland and after studying Gordon Hamlett’s excellent guidebook and doing some research, decided the best plan would be to visit the Island of Handa.

Handa is a privately owned island, which is around 15 miles south of Cape Wrath, the most North Westerly point of mainland Scotland. The island and access to it is managed by the Scottish Wildlife Trust, who kindly gave me permission to reproduce their map:

Above: Handa map, courtesy of the Scottish Wildlife Trust. Further information can also be fund on their website at www.swt.org.uk/visit/reserves/HAI/Handa%20Island/

The above map can also be found on the Scottish Wildlife Trust website along with further information.

Access to the island is by ferry from the village of Tarbet and I believe the boat runs Monday to Saturday (weather dependent) with first crossings around 9am and last returns around 5pm. In practise it looks like the ferry runs when there’s nearly a boat full and comes back to the island when the wardens radio that there are a few people waiting to return.

I stayed the night before at a lovely B&B at Kylesku which had a scope in the conservatory to view seals in the loch below and had Ring Ouzel in the grounds the day before I arrived! At the bridge of Kylesku itself I saw Red-throated Divers in the narrows under the bridge and Black Guillemot.

Above: Kylesku

The drive from Kylesku to Tarbet for the ferry took about 20 minutes but is through the most fantastic scenery I’ve seen in the UK, that area of Scotland changes from green valley to sea loch to mountains, seemingly with every bend of the road. There was plenty of car parking at Tarbet and it was only a ten minute wait for the 09.15 ferry. The trip to the island itself is under ten minutes but on the way out I saw Black Guillemot, Red-throated Divers, Bridled Guillemot (which surfaced next to the boat) and Shag plus a number of skuas flying around the island itself.

Above: Common Guillemot of the bridled variety

As we approached the landing beach there were two Great Skua (Bonxies), fighting over some desiccated remains on the foreshore.

Above: Bonxie scraps

After landing we were all taken to the nearby shelter for a briefing on the island, the bird species and some “do’s and don’ts” – the main rule being not to stray from the paths. There was also a sightings board and the wardens were very helpful with potential locations for some of the wildlife and bird species.

Once the briefing was over I deliberately hung back to let the majority of the group get ahead, as I’d decided to take as long as I needed to and was in no rush. Within 50metres of leaving the shelter I saw my first Bonxies and when I reached the ruined village I stopped and took in the Arctic Skuas on the slopes beneath plus Red Grouse feeding in the bracken around the ruins. There had been light rain and as I sat by the ruined croft a dark phase Arctic Skua flew to within 10metres of me to drink from rainwater on some large slabs just beneath the path (I knew it had been a good idea to let the main party get away from me at that point!).

Above: Dark phase Arctic Skua

Following the path to the north west there were many Bonxies and Arctic Skuas, both on the ground and in flight and on climbing the first proper ridge I got excellent views of a pair of Arctics, one of which was a pale phase. There was no aggression from either species but I believe I was there prior to them starting to establish firm territories.

Above: Pale phase Arctic Skua

The path takes you across the island to the main sea bird cliffs at Puffin Bay and as you reach the cliff top there is a large freshwater pool set back about 100m from the cliff top path where I got good, if distant, views of groups of up to fifteen Bonxies which were bathing and preening. There was a brief view of a Red-throated Diver on the same pool, as it flew in from the sea and then moved to the near edge. I spent some time at that stretch of cliffs watching the many Fulmar and other seabirds in the large colony.

Above: Bonxie flock

Just to the west is the Great Stack which had Razorbills, Common Guillemots and Puffins in the burrows on the top of the stack. Just as I left the Great Stack I saw a Bonxie drop into a small freshwater pool about 15m from the path and I sat and watched as it preened, drank and rested – it was a fantastic setting for some photos and I even managed to drop back to my 300mm prime and take the 2x teleconverter off the camera: some of you may recognise this bird from the July 2011 Manchester Birding mystery bird competition!

Above: Bonxie drinking

CONTINUE TO PAGE TWO OF THE HANDA JUNE 2011 TRIP REPORT